Jacksonville’s Treaty Oak
Jessie Ball DuPont Park

THE ONLY SURVIVING WITNESS TO THE BIRTH OF JACKSONVILLE

Woodman, spare that tree!
Touch not a single bough!
In youth it sheltered me,
And I’ll protect it now.
George Pope Morris, 1860

Jacksonville Florida’s famous Treaty Oak is the only attraction remaining of the once famous Dixieland Park amusement complex. Dwarfed while standing beside Jacksonville Florida’s famous Treaty Oak tree (Southern Live Oak), one can almost hear the sounds of people screaming, people laughing and carnival ride noises emanating from the area that once occupied the property surrounding this enormous arboreal wonder (*Quercus* *virginiana*). The outcome of an errant acorn blown to its location by wind or dropped by a bird, it is hard to imagine something so small could result in something so tremendously huge.

“The Giant Oak”, as it was known for one hundred years or more, is located in Treaty Oak Park bordered by Main Street and the St. Johns River on the Southbank. Even at the ripe old age of 200, 250 or as some suggest 300 years old; one can still touch, climb on or just picnic under a tree that has withstood the entire history of Jacksonville, Florida (founded 1832).  Actually, Treaty Oak (1760) sprouted 16 years before the founding of our country and a full 31 years before Cowford (1791-1832), as Jacksonville was previously known.

With a circumference of nearly 24 1/2 feet and limbs stretching out like octopus limbs from its trunk over 30 yards east and 30 yards west, one cannot help but call this survivor of the past, magnificent.

In fact, since the invention of still photography you have to believe that every citizen of Jacksonville and hundreds of thousands of visitors has posed with this proud old photogenic natural monstrosity.

Images captured at the turn of the 19th century show small homes built directly under Treaty Oak’s canopy. If you look closely enough, small light bulbs are visible. These were part of the early electrical display in 1907 which attracted many tourists interested in seeing Treaty Oak illuminated and the new futuristic advancement known as electrical lighting.

During this period, a bronze plaque attached directly to the tree contained the following statement:

The oldest and largest tree in Florida, 160 feet across under the branches. At noon, it shades a space of 190 feet in diameter. Students of forestry say it is over 400 years old. The body of the tree is over 9 feet in circumference. It was Osceola’s favorite camp ground and was generally used for Indian councils of war.

Though we now believe the tree to be 250 years old, this is the only mention that could be found linking Indians and especially Osceola to the tree.

In the 1960’s, developers attempted to build structures directly up to Treaty Oak’s limbs, but luckily local support, bolstered by the city’s newspaper (The Florida Times-Union), saved the tree and its surrounding property. It was actually one of its staff writers, Roland (Pat) Moran (now deceased) who gave “The Giant Oak” the honorary title Treaty Oak. It was honorary since no official record exists to describe the fact that a treaty was ever signed at Treaty Oak.

Today, buildings encroach the once hallowed grounds north of the tree. But, thanks to the quick thinking by local women’s groups and a donation from philanthropist Jessie Ball DuPont, the remaining undeveloped area south of the tree was purchased and saved for all to enjoy.

It is hard to imagine and maybe morbid to discuss the death of Treaty Oak, but all things die. It could happen by old age, high winds (a downblast several years ago eliminated an entire park of Jacksonville’s treasured 100 year-old oaks), hurricanes or even a devilish act.

In 1988, a crazed ex-convict fatally damaged a similar cherished ancient 500-year-old oak tree in Austin, Texas, ominously named Treaty Oak.

Arborists did everything in their power to save the tree but finally, the tree died. Angry citizens of Austin demanded severe punishment for the criminal. The man was sentenced to 9 years. Just months after his sentence and conviction he was released from jail. The Judge claimed that the man had “suffered enough” for the crime, but even so, the 500-year-old tree was still dead.

Perhaps we should take this as a lesson and erect an 8 foot fence around the park to be locked after dark? At a minimum, the city should create a three dimensional scan of Treaty Oak. Then it would be possible to construct an artificial reproduction of Jacksonville’s natural wonder for all to enjoy for years to come. Don’t laugh at the idea. Walt Disney World created a 15-story (145 ft. tall) 50-foot wide artificial tree (Tree of Life) in its Disney Animal Kingdom park, complete with a 300 seat auditorium underneath.

In order to confirm the age of Treaty Oak, we contacted Jacksonville Electric Authority’s (JEA) Forester, Michael Robinson. His nearly 30 years of experience in the field truly establishes him as an expert. Mike explained that he doesn’t work alone. JEA’s forestry team also includes Foresters Joe Dunbar and Brad Norton and Arborist, Landall Demby.

Mike stated that, “Oak trees by their nature grow rapidly leading to enormous sizes and misleading age estimates. Given the right conditions, an oak can grow as quickly as five inches of diameter per year, though most grow ½ to 1 inch per year. Normally, oak trees grown in urban areas are dwarfed by their inability to extend its root line. Naturally, its roots will extend to the end of the trees canopy. But, a tree in a rural setting (as Treaty Oak used to be) and near plenty of water will extend its roots nearly twice the length of its canopy. To answer your question, most professional arborists who have examined Treaty Oak believe it to be approximately 250 years old.”

When questioned about the trees impending demise, Mike said, “Unless it is a natural disaster, Treaty Oak will probably not die in our lifetime. Given its health, continued care, and other safety precautions, I expect it will live another 100 years or more.” Mike explained that lightning rods have been placed on the tree to protect it from lightning damage and that the boardwalk installed underneath the tree canopy serves a greater purpose. “It keeps children and adults off the giant roots that are exposed above the top soil. These roots must be protected. Damaging Treaty Oaks above-ground roots could easily kill the tree.”

Interesting enough, the JEA has acted as a surrogate mother to raise thousands of Treaty Oak offspring. Mike said, “This all began in the early 1980’s, when our Forester, Joe Dunbar, as a hobby, started his own personal Treaty Oak tree farm at his home. The JEA considered it such a great idea that it adopted the program and now grows 1000 Treaty Oak saplings per year. These are given to charities and used by JEA to meet state and national legal mandates to replace every oak it must cut down for one reason or another. “I would estimate we’ve planted 5000 baby Treaty Oak trees since its inception.”

JEA donates 100 trees per year to Greenscape for its fundraising. Greenscape sells them at its annual tree sale held in March. Mike is most proud of JEA’s participation with cities ravaged by Hurricane Katrina. “We drove over and presented them with 100 7-gallon Treaty Oak trees. It wasn’t much, but they were so appreciative of such a gesture. Who knows, maybe 200 years from now, there will be a giant Treaty Oak offspring in Mississippi.”

Another conservationist and tree lover, Russell Skinner, owner of Skinners Tree Nursery, has grown seedlings from Treaty Oak’s acorns for years.

While visiting Treaty Oak for this story, I met a gentleman who lunches underneath the tree every day, who told this story; “A man approached me and pointed toward Treaty Oak. He was from out of town and was staying at the Hampton Inn next door to the tree. Pointing in the direction of Treaty Oak, he asked, “What is a forest doing in the center of Jacksonville.” I responded, “That is not a forest, it is one single oak tree.” He could not imagine a tree could be so gigantic.” Maybe the signage needs to be improved to inform visitors what is under that canopy. Removing three tiny pieces of
the tree would expose its unique trunk.

Only three stately ancient trees remain in Florida. Be sure to include a trip to Treaty Oak for your family, friends and visitors to our fine state – and, take your camera.

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“You should have seen it!” shouted a young boy in the crowd. Pointing to a large black stallion drinking from a trough, he added, “It was as big as that ther horse over ther’.”

But, we don’t need to rely on the word of a child to know that this “rock from another planet” was gigantic. There were dozens who saw it fall and thousands more that touched it.

In January, 1888, several Florida residents witnessed a “large green streak” falling through the sky. Known as a shooting star, the meteorite was visible throughout the entire southeast. Trying to project its final location and landing zone, each witness pointed to a field nearby where they were standing. Whether they lived in Key West, Miami, Palatka or Jacksonville, they would motion in a particular direction and then say, “Its got to be right over there.”

It turns out that the monstrous meteorite (the envy of the world) fell to the earth in Middleburg, Florida. It was late in the evening when several passersby witnessed its arrival then heard a tremendous “thud.” Every house in the town shook.

Running to farmer J.W. Barber’s newly cultivated land, they approached a smoking hole and right there in front of them was this catch of a rock.

Farmer Barber rode up on his horse in his bedclothes and inquired, “What the hell is all the commotion on my land about?”

“Take a look for yerself, knucklehead,” one man shouted.

Farmer Barber approached the smoldering hole and said, “Just which one of yous dug this hole and burned some wood.”

Shaking his gun like an Indian spear, he said, “I’ll use this on ya. I’ve got rock salt loaded to the top. Doya think I’m crazy?”

Pointing at the large steaming rock, one man shouted, “J.W., have ya ever seen a rock on fire?”

Farmer Barber was now close enough to see the large rock. It had a whiteish appearance and looked similar to a lump of coal just after it was pulled from the fire.

“Now just where did that thing come from?” he inquired. He looked around at everyone, scanning their faces for some type of reaction.

An older boy, unwilling to be shot in the behind said, “Put down that gun and we’ll tell ya.’

The farmer obliged and sat the gun on the ground. Lifting his head back up he noticed that everyone was looking to the sky.

Pointing upward, the boy said, “This is going to sound stupid fer sure, but it fell from up der.”

The farmer, now with a look of disgust shouted, “Now I’ve just about had enough.” He reached down toward the gun when a big man with a badge stepped on its barrel. It was the local sheriff. He said, “They told you the truth J.W., that thing fell from the sky.”

Scratching his head in disbelief, farmer Barber said, “Oh my goodness gracious. Now I’ve seen dang near everything.”

The next morning, farmer Barber was the town’s celebrity. Pointing to the
sky like some kind of expert, he could heard saying, “The thing just dropped from the sky and don’t let me hear ya say ya don’t believe it.” He had taken time to build a wooden fence around the hole in order to preserve his find.

Observing a young boy sticking his head through the fence, farmer Barber shouted, “Boy, don’t get too close now,” People were standing ten deep just to get a peek at his “stone from the heavens.”

A neighbor said, “J.W. you are so lucky. That’s damn near the largest stone from the sky that anyone has ever found.

Suddenly, a man they termed a “city boy” stepped up and said, “You could be right. There were a couple of meteorites that fell in Spain that might be larger but this one is truly a keeper and may be in the record books.”

The timing could not have been better to have a natural amusement enter the earth’s atmosphere. It was just weeks before Florida’s Subtropical Exposition and this was a unique item. Exposition organizers approached the farmer for permission and after guarantees that his land would be returned to its original state; he accepted their offer to remove the iron stone and display it in Jacksonville.

It was not clear whether the farmer requested the meteorites return after its display.

Block and tackle assisted in its removal and placement on a washboard wagon pulled by several horses. The trip from Middleburg to Jacksonville,
Florida, took nearly two full days.

For nearly three years, the 200 pound magnificent piece was displayed in
its special cradle. It was touched, sat on, kissed, prayed to and even
painted. It was stroked by the President of the United States, the First
Lady, the Governor, Mayors of several cities and many other dignitaries.
There were those who brought tools to remove a piece for posterity but none were successful. They left empty-handed.

Sometime during its display, Dr. Hahn, meteorite expert from Germany, traveled to Jacksonville to photograph and examine the meteorite. He exclaimed that he had proof of fossils inside the giant ore and wrote a paper outlining his find. Years later, his claims were discredited.

Sadly, after Jacksonville’s Subtropical Exposition, the meteor was removed and never seen again. There are several newspaper articles published during this time period throughout the world which suggest a group of thieves would acquire meteors for its mineral deposits. They would melt the rock which would separate each individual metal and sell the results to the highest bidder.

Whether this theft occurred or not the Middleburg Meteor has never been seen again.

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SEPTEMBER 21ST MAY HAVE COME AND GONE, BUT HOW UNUSUAL IS IT TO HAVE TWO PEOPLE WASH ASHORE IN OUR CITY? WE’LL TRY TO GET THE FACTS STRAIGHT AND LET YOU DECIDE WHETHER IT IS TRUTH OR FICTION.

MOST SIGNIFICANT TO THE STORY IS THE FACT THAT THEIR BIZARRE STORY BEGAN (AS THEY CLAIM) WHEN THEY WERE SWEPT OUT TO SEA IN THEIR BATHING APPAREL NOT AT JACKSONVILLE BEACH BUT IN NEW YORK CITY. IF YOU TRULY BELIEVE THEIR STORY, MAYBE YOU WOULD BE WILLING TO WIRE MONEY TO JACKSONVILLE SO THE TWO BATHING VICTIMS CAN RETURN HOME.

On September 21, 1891, two strangers were found disoriented and walking along Fort Caroline Road. Their Good Samaritan, Joseph DuPont, discovered the man and a woman walking along the dirt road heading toward our city. “They said they were from New York!” exclaimed Joe. “They were very thirsty. They definitely are not from around here. They had no means of transportation.”

It is true! I met Samuel W. Thornton and his sister-in-law Eva Jewell in the lobby of the St. John’s House on Forsyth Street near Pine. Its Proprietress, Mrs. E. Hudnull, said that Joe DuPont dropped the two at her establishment after attempting to drop them at four other hotels. “They were dressed in an uncouth manner but I took pity on them.” She said. “He had twenty dollars. I put him in one room and her in another. I did not know the nature of their relationship.” She displayed the hotel log and there in large print was the signature of Samuel W. Thornton. Just below the name Thornton was the signature of Eva Jewell in a ladies style of handwriting.

According to Mrs. Hudnull, after a huge meal and “three glasses of milk each” they went right to their rooms and fell soundly asleep. When asked if she believe the cockle mammy story, Mrs. Hudnull said, “Something terrible happened to the two of them. Though it is a tall tale for sure.”

Mrs. Hudnull continued the story saying that the next morning they went straight to the Western Union Telegraph company. “He said they sent telegrams to their folks in New York telling them he was alive. Who could make up such a story?”

She showed me the telegram that Thornton sent to his family in New York. It said, “Both Safe. STOP. Had Narrow Escape. STOP. Were carried out to sea. STOP. Want money to get clothes and return. STOP. Send $50. STOP. SAMUEL M. THORNTON. STOP.” Those 22 words cost him a precious dollar which this writer believes no sane person would spend otherwise. Another clue, the message was sent to a William J. Thornton, brother of the storyteller, who is a barber at 409 Myrtle Avenue, Brooklyn, New York.

Speaking to William, he said that Samuel’s wife does not believe he is alive but is anxious to hear more about his plight. The barber added that before he would wire the enormous sum of $50 to anyone, he would “need proof of their identification.” When asked how his brother might confirm his identity, William said, “I telegraphed him a message that requested his safe combination. I also asked him to supply another piece of information that only he would know. You realize I would have to cut over 100 heads of hair to afford $50. It is a tall request.”

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HISTORIC SHIP AT BOTTOM OF DUNN’S CREEK – - EVIDENCE DISCOVERED IN GETAWAY BOAT

FEDERAL OFFICIALS PATROLING THE ST. JOHNS RIVER NOTICED TWO MEN FLEEING THE SCENE OF A SINKING SHIP ON DUNN’S CREEK. THEIR BOAT WAS PERSUED UNTIL THE SUSPECTS ABANDONED IT AND SWAM TO SHORE. THEY WERE LAST SEEN RUNNING TOWARD JACKSONVILLE. INSIDE THE GETAWAY BOAT THEY FOUND A NOTE NAMING THE PERPETRATOR. THE TWO ARE STILL AT LARGE.

Exactly one year after he joined the Confederate Army, April 1862, 18-year-old Charles Cornelius Hemming was assigned (or volunteered for) the dangerous task of sinking two Confederate blockade running ships. Union forces were moving toward Jacksonville up the St. Johns River and Confederate forces would rather scuttle the ships than allow the Union to add them to its fleet. Hemming’s signed official orders spelled out the specific mission:

Hemming, you are to acquire a small boat by any means possible and paddle to the Steamer “St. Marys” and the Yacht “America.” Sink them immediately. They must not be captured by enemy forces. Both ships are located on Dunn’s Creek. God Speed. Signed, Commanding Officer J.J. Dickison.

Hemming’s only request of his superiors was that if he were caught or killed, that his parents would not be told of his mission.

The men acquired a small boat (row boat or canoe) and paddled first to the steamer “St. Marys.” After boring 2” auger holes in its bottom, the boat sank. No official or unofficial document records the number of holes drilled in the “St. Marys” hull. Next they paddled to the “America.” According to a witness documented in a Federal report, they bored three 2 inch auger holes forward and two 2 inch auger holes aft. The America sunk quickly in shallow water near the shore.

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“IT MAKES CAGE FIGHTING APPEAR LAME,” fight organizer claims.

FLORIDA GOVERNOR PROMISES TO HALT FIGHT WITH MILITARY ACTION

The entire world is waiting to hear the results of the battle of titans, the first ever “Scientific Boxing Match”, and it is happening right here in our city. Jacksonville has secured a international event envied by all nations after completing the contractual agreement for the International Bare-Knuckles Prize Fight of James Corbett and Charles Mitchell, the two toughest men in the world. The fight organizer stated, “Bare-Knuckles fighting makes cage fighting seem lame.” Corbett and Mitchell will fight to determine who will hold the title of “The Greatest Fighter in the World.”

Our Mayor has made it clear that the police will stop any effort to hold the fight. The Mayor threatened, “I’ll have them arrested if they actually fight each other.” Florida’s Governor has promised to send in the military if the fight promoters continue in their “illegal ways.”

In 1894, United States boxing fans waited patiently and the entire business world came to a complete stop in order to receive word of the winner of the bare-knuckle fight of Corbett and Mitchell in Jacksonville, Florida. Few actually believed that the fight would actually take place. Religious leaders, Mayor Fletcher, the city council and even Florida’s Governor were against public displays of violence, especially tying this spectacle to the “tourist friendly” city of Jacksonville. Jacksonville’s image had been polished with success and any event which might damage the local and state economy was deemed too risky.

In 1882, England ruled in a case of bare-knuckle fighting that it was considered “an assault occasioning bodily harm” and determined it to be illegal. To fight with bare-knuckles required fighters to leave the country and to find a sympathetic venue. In 1894, when the fight was arraigned, large cities all over the world denied the pair a venue for the shear violence of such a match.

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A band of angry citizens provoked by the Jacksonville’s Mayors’ incendiary words of surrender, hunted suspected traitors and threatened to kill any that were found. One man brandishing a sawed-off shotgun shouted “We will kill the traitors! We will never give up!”

One man who agreed with the Mayor’s remarks (of surrender) was shot dead on the spot. Witnesses stated they saw blood oozing from his multiple gunshots. Later, two men who the group described as “sympathizers” were caught at the boat dock and executed. Luckily, the Mayor escaped.

Since the city of Jacksonville, Florida, was first established in 1822, there have been approximately 50 city Mayors. The first Mayor, William J. Mills, originally from Amelia Island, served from 1832 until 1835. Some Mayors have been young, some old, there were skinny Mayors and there were obese Mayors, there were book-trained intelligent Mayors and admired farmhands who reached the highest office.

Only one Mayor, Halstead H. Hoeg (1860-1862; 1865-1866), faced the troubling decision of whether to surrender Jacksonville to the Union troops during the Civil War (considered by Southerners as the War of Northern Aggression).

The year was 1862, and the Civil War was heating up in the Georgia and Florida. Union soldiers were becoming more aggressive in their tactics and pushing deep into the South.

The Mayor, described as a “strong drink of milk”, was not a big man by any means. A “book reader” by nature, he was non-confrontational and hoped that all arguments could be settled amicably. He had served the city for two terms and felt comfortable in his decisions. A major misjudgment of Jacksonville’s fighting spirit could have cost him his life.

According to a Savannah, Georgia, newspaper, it all began on or around March 10, 1862, when Mayor Hoeg was notified of Union troops approaching the city. He might have received a telegram or message which ordered him to “surrender the city or witness it burned to the ground.”

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Yesterday, city residents were alarmed when windows rattled. Aftershocks lasted the entire day and late into the evening. Few realized that Jacksonville could be affected by the same affliction as California’s coastline.

Citizens were upset by the lack of preparedness and total inability of local officials to forecast such an event. They called for the immediate ousting of the Mayor and several of his leading staff members.

Rarely is the word earthquake mentioned when discussing the city of Jacksonville, Florida. But, in the late 1800’s, Jacksonville’s earth rolled
and shook with such intensity that it was assumed that the worst was yet to come.

Everyone was well aware that, since ninety percent of the city’s buildings were constructed out of wood, the slightest shockwave could spell firestorm.  It had happened to San Francisco, why not Jacksonville? Fear struck at the hearts and minds of all those who experienced the trembling.

Maybe it would have been alright if this were the first time. But, there were those who had already ridden the rocking ground several times.

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FASTEST IN THE ENTIRE WORLD!

The New York Times printed this story that most sane individuals would consider total fiction. It is a story that only a dreamer might imagine. Who could ever fathom that a distance of 780 miles could be covered in such a record time?

One observer was overheard stating, “No one may ever live to see the day that this land speed record (from Jacksonville, Florida, to Washington, D.C.) is broken.” Amazing all observers, these daredevils broke the existing record by well over 2 hours.

It was a hot day in August when several men joined together and drove from our city as quickly as humanly possible to New York. Was it a spaceship, a jet, a car or something that only Jules Verne could dream of? In fact, it was none of the above. Their record-breaking speed machine was a steam railroad train, and the year was 1894.

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SCIENTISTS BAFFLED – CAUSE OF AIRBORNE EPIDEMIC UNKNOWN

In an effort to stop a further outbreak of what might amount to be an epidemic, Jacksonville, Florida, has been shut off from the entire world. Neighboring cities are checking to make sure Jacksonville evacuees don’t end up in their cities. Several passengers have been bodily removed from trains and actually thrown out on the train tracks. By order of the government of the United States, all trains passing through Jacksonville will not be allowed to stop and must increase their speed to the highest possible speed. In addition, train windows and other openings must be completely sealed. Until further notice, no products manufactured in Jacksonville will be permitted to be sold outside the city. One notable medical doctor was overhead stating, “This germ can’t be allowed to spread outside Jacksonville. All we can do is pray for cold weather.”

If you think that people get nervous discussing outbreaks of AIDS, Lyme Disease and now Swine Flu, it’s a good thing that you did not live in Jacksonville during its darkest days, beginning August 1888.

Thousands died in just a couple months and scientists and medical doctors alike were baffled by what was happening. Worse yet was the fact that they had no idea how to effectively treat the patients. Small puddles of standing water acted as the perfect breeding ground for the infected insects that with one bite carried the disease to the next victim.

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